Best way to bend cotter pins2/28/2024 Posted 13:38 (#4725909 - in reply to #4725856) Subject: RE: Correct cotter pin bending? Posted 13:18 (#4725882 - in reply to #4725836) Subject: RE: Correct cotter pin bending?Īlways remember rule #1. But maybe i never learned how they were meant to be used either. The only time i go both one way is in a situation where it would catch on something if cent the other way. And that is the way that keeps them in there til you take them out next time. ![]() Posted 12:56 (#4725856 - in reply to #4725836) Subject: RE: Correct cotter pin bending? I'm wondering what is the correct way to bend a cotter pin? Both tails one way? Or one tail one way and the other the opposite way? Or, is there different ways to bend them for different applications? Do you ever get one of those thoughts in your head that you just have to know the answer LOL? BTW, I am 55 years old but have never got an answer to this LOL. ![]() Posted 12:39 (#4725836) Subject: Correct cotter pin bending? ( logon | register )Ĭorrect cotter pin bending? Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 ![]() I guess it's like boxers vs briefs and is more a personal preference than anything else.You are logged in as a guest. I am more apt to do it more often since the pin need not be replaced and comes out easy too. It's a lot easier to adjust my chain this way. The times I don't use this method is in an application like a propeller, but with a big assed pin on the rear axle of my Strom, just bending the legs of the pin to a "Y" works for me. The only time I have broken a leg has been when it was wrapped around the nut previously. 99.99999 % of the times I have looked at the pin it's exactly the way I left it in the "Y" position with no sign of movement of contact. If the wrap around method is how you do it keep in mind the leg is more apt to break if snagged than the way I just described since it would catch then bend quickly all the way back.Īll of the above is nonsensical anyway. In the event of some brush, tall grass, this would prevent it from snagging. I install the Y pointing back to the 8:00 position if possible. I don't install a cotter-pin open end up either.Ī hitch pin would come out more easily than a cotter-pin bent into a "Y" so I would never have it upside down so to speak. The hitch pin works well too, but I would not feel 100% comfortable with it inserted in the open end up position. The issue of not wrapping the legs around the nut tightly is to sell more cotter pins and for some safety (not cutting yourself or from snagging on something) Could also be in the event you take it off road and crash it as it may lesson the chance of it being damaged or broken while being dragged through the gravel. Or a little tap tap tap with the side of the pliers on the end of the pin to help after straightening for removal. Just use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze flat, and the tip of the pliers will fit in the hole of the pin end for easy removal. There is no ill effect (mechanically) of using this method. I would bet anyone here a beer that my cotter-pin being used this way will last longer than 2 chains, will NEVER fall out (it may get lost when I have the bike apart). ![]() If you don't bend the "legs" of the new cotter pin all the way around the nut but only bent it into a "Y" you can use the pin over and over and over with NO problems. I'll let you know what I come up with, unless someone else comes up with an answer sooner. :shock: When I get it, I plan to go directly to the hardware store next door and find some the same size. It's probably not that big a deal, but I'd ask a mechanic if there was any doubt.īTW, I went to my local dealer to get one and he didn't have any, so it's on order. My gut feeling is that an awful lot of people don't have a torque wrench and tighten these nuts using the grunt-and-a-half method. That said, these are motorcycles, not airplanes, but mechanical issues can still have unhealthy effects. An alternative, from the School of Word of Mouth, is to tighten to spec, then back off until you achieve alignment. In the "Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices" book used by aviation mechanics (I'm not one), the recommended method for the slots in the nut (castellations) not lining up with the hole for the cotter pin is to "change washers and try again." To me that means put a thinner or thicker washer on which hopefully will lead to the proper alignment of the castellations and the hole at the specified torque. Then you can use the same "dikes" to grab the pin by its loop and pull it out. NOTE: this can launch the cut off piece right at your eyes, so wear safety glasses or at least use you other hand to deflect it. Assuming you are not going to re-use the pin (which you shouldn't unless you're in a bind), just use some diagonal cutters and snip off the bent leg of the pin.
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